GOOD SHOES. REAL LIFE. An independent guide for men 35+ Research in progress
Gentle Sneaker
THE EVERYDAY SHOE EDIT
Our approach ↗

A century, underfoot

Sneaker evolution

From canvas and rubber to visible cushioning. Seven eras, the materials that shaped them, and the pairs you can explore today.

A man in early twentieth-century tailoring wearing canvas sneakers
Illustrated canvas basketball shoe inspired by early court footwear

1910s

Canvas on the court

Canvas above. Rubber below. A basketball silhouette takes shape.

  • Upper

    Canvas

    Advantage: Flexible, breathable weave

    Trade-off: Absorbs water without treatment

  • Outsole

    Rubber

    Advantage: Grip and wear resistance

    Trade-off: Grip depends on surface

Explore today’s models

Dates mark the origins of each line
Converse Chuck Taylor All Star1917 · Non-Skid originsConverse Chuck Taylor All StarView model
Illustration of a man wearing suede low-top sneakers, in late 1960s style
Illustrated suede low-top sneaker inspired by late 1960s footwear

1960s

Suede finds its colour

A soft surface gives sportswear a new palette.

  • Upper

    Suede

    Advantage: Takes colour well

    Trade-off: Needs careful cleaning

  • Outsole

    Rubber

    Advantage: Grip and wear resistance

    Trade-off: Grip depends on surface

Explore today’s models

Dates mark the origins of each line
Puma SuedeImage: PUMA1968 · CRACK originsPuma SuedeView model
A seated man in 1970s casual clothes wearing low-top sneakers
Illustrated canvas skate shoe with reinforcing panels and a rubber sole

1970s

Built for the board

Skaters give canvas, leather panels and rubber a new purpose.

  • Upper

    Canvas

    Advantage: Flexible, breathable weave

    Trade-off: Absorbs water without treatment

  • Reinforcement

    Leather panels

    Advantage: Reinforces high-wear areas

    Trade-off: Cleaning depends on finish

  • Outsole

    Rubber

    Advantage: Grip and wear resistance

    Trade-off: Grip depends on surface

Explore today’s models

Dates mark the origins of each line
Vans Old Skool1977 · Style 36 originsVans Old SkoolView model Nike Cortez1972 · Nike debutNike CortezView model
Illustration of a man wearing visible-Air running sneakers, in late 1980s style
Illustrated running sneaker with a visible heel Air window

1980s

Air comes into view

An internal cushioning system becomes part of the outside design.

  • Midsole

    Foam

    Advantage: Cushioning beneath the foot

    Trade-off: Feel changes with wear

  • Cushioning

    Nike Air

    Advantage: Additional cushioning system

    Trade-off: Cannot fix poor fit

  • Outsole

    Rubber

    Advantage: Grip and wear resistance

    Trade-off: Grip depends on surface

Explore today’s models

Dates mark the origins of each line
Nike Air Max 11987 · Visible heel AirNike Air Max 1View model Nike Air Force 11982 · Basketball originsNike Air Force 1View model
Illustration of a man wearing layered running sneakers, in mid 1990s style
Illustrated layered running sneaker with visible heel and forefoot Air

1990s

More layers. More expression.

Mesh, synthetic suede and visible Air build an anatomical silhouette.

  • Upper

    Mesh

    Advantage: Light, breathable upper

    Trade-off: Mesh alone isn’t waterproof

  • Overlays

    Synthetic suede

    Advantage: Layered support for uppers

    Trade-off: Overlays can restrict airflow

  • Cushioning

    Visible Air

    Advantage: Heel and forefoot cushioning

    Trade-off: Cannot fix poor fit

Explore today’s models

Dates mark the origins of each line
Nike Air Max 951995 · Forefoot AirNike Air Max 95View model
Illustration of a man wearing wool sneakers with casual clothes, in 2010s style
Illustrated minimalist everyday sneaker with a wool upper

2010s

A different kind of upper

Merino wool brings a soft textile into everyday sneakers.

  • Upper

    Merino wool

    Advantage: Helps regulate temperature

    Trade-off: Needs gentle cold washing

  • Midsole · 2018

    Sugarcane-based EVA

    Advantage: Less petroleum-based feedstock

    Trade-off: Cushioning changes with wear

Explore today’s models

Dates mark the origins of each line
Allbirds Wool Runner2016 · Wool Runner debutAllbirds Wool RunnerView model
Illustration of a man in contemporary clothes wearing tubular-Air sneakers
Illustrated contemporary sneaker with eight visible cushioning tubes

2020s

Cushioning takes the stage

Eight Air tubes carry the system from heel to forefoot.

  • Upper

    Mesh

    Advantage: Light, breathable upper

    Trade-off: Mesh alone isn’t waterproof

  • Cushioning

    Dynamic Air

    Advantage: Pressure responds to each step

    Trade-off: Fit still matters

  • Outsole

    Rubber

    Advantage: Grip and wear resistance

    Trade-off: Grip depends on surface

Explore today’s models

Dates mark the origins of each line
Nike Air Max Dn82025 · Dynamic Air debutNike Air Max Dn8View model

Different jobs shaped different shoes. The old forms stayed with us as new materials and new ways of wearing them arrived.

Find your next pair